Molokai is the Hawaii that Hawaii used to be, and for the travelers who seek it out, that is precisely the point. The fifth largest of the Hawaiian Islands sits between Oahu and Maui and has made a conscious, community-led decision to resist the kind of large-scale tourism development that has transformed its neighbors. There are no traffic lights on Molokai, no high-rise hotels, no shopping malls, and no nightclubs. What the island does have is extraordinary: the world’s tallest sea cliffs along the rugged North Shore, a pristine coastline largely untouched by development, the deeply moving Kalaupapa National Historical Park where a former leprosy settlement tells one of Hawaii’s most powerful and poignant stories, and a native Hawaiian community that maintains traditions, language, and a connection to the land that is rare anywhere in the modern world. Molokai is not the right choice for every traveler, but for those seeking a genuine, unhurried, and humbling experience of old Hawaii, it is unlike anything else the state can offer. Our Molokai travel guides cover the best ways to visit, where to stay, what to do, and how to approach this remarkable island with the respect it deserves.